Our backpacking trip takes us to a wild and remote corner of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. This region of the Philip Smith Mountains, north of the Arctic (Continental) Divide, boasts brooding limestone peaks, twisted and uplifted into fabulous ramparts, with U-shaped glacial valleys winding through the mountains. Dall sheep are the denizens here, along with grizzlies, wolves, caribou, rough-legged hawks, golden eagles and occasionally, even moose and the elusive wolverine.
Arriving by bush plane from Fairbanks or Coldfoot, a small northern town north of the Arctic Circle, we begin our 9-day trip in a mountain-rimmed valley near Cloud Peak.
Cloud Peak is the tallest peak in this part of the Brooks Range, but all of the mountains are impressive, as we wind our way north through ancient U-shaped valleys, following water sources through rocky canyons to their origins. Climbing along ancient sheep tracks, we head south through a spectacular pass, crossing the Arctic Divide. Rarely traveled, the land is both wild and serene, harsh and sublime. The mountains and valleys seem endless, and the sense of solitude and space is profound. Light and shadows on the mountains provide wonderful photographic opportunities.
Along the way, we encounter a variety of hiking conditions, walking along the banks of rivers and streams, over rock, scree slopes and spongy tundra. The extended light of the north's "Midnight sun" allows us to have a flexible hiking schedule.
There are few places left on earth as wild the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. It is a symbol of our natural heritage, a remnant of the wilderness that once covered all of North America. While the area that we will visit is protected, it is not part of the Arctic Refuge designated wilderness. Fifteen years ago, The Wilderness Society called for additional protection of this area, but currently, the U.S. Congress is not amenable to such legislation. The area to the north (Arctic Coastal Plain) is is threatened. There have been repeated proposals to open the Arctic Refuge coastal plain to oil drilling. We hope that by visiting this incredible region of the Arctic Refuge you will be better informed, and willing to help get it protected permanently.
