There are few places left on earth as wild the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. It is a symbol of our natural heritage, a remnant of the wilderness that once covered all of North America. As remote as it is, there are spots in the refuge that few know of, even fewer have ever reached.
Difficult access makes this unique hot springs on the North Slope of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge quite special. In a secluded valley among the highest of the Romanzof Mountains, Okpilak Hot Springs bubbles out of limestone at 119 degrees F., inviting tundra-weary backpackers, and the local population of Dall sheep. Not easily accessible, it takes 2-3 days of trekking to reach in the best of conditions.
We hike in the shadow of the highest peaks in the Brooks Range, crossing rivulets, streams and two swift glacial rivers, along with some very challenging tussocks to reach our secluded destination. We hike to the headwaters of the Okpilak River, where glacial meltwater tumbles down a narrow canyon. The mountains flanking the Okpilak are defined by extreme vertical relief; scenery is nothing short of spectacular. The area is inhabited by grizzlies, wolves, caribou, Dall sheep, the elusive wolverine and other arctic wildlife.
Our route takes us across the coastal plain and foothills into the Romanzof Mountains, country wisely protected as wilderness. The area offers unlimited exploration in mountain tundra country entirely north of the treeline. The closest spruce forests are 60 miles to the south, over the Arctic Divide. Willow and birch, the only shrubs, reach about 8 feet in height this far north. A vast green carpet of tundra stretches across the land, and the mountain peaks stretch across the Arctic Divide.
To the north, lands are threatened by proposals to open the coastal plain to oil drilling. We hope that by visiting this incredible region of the Arctic Refuge you will be better informed, and willing to help protect it.