Autumn in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is special. On the southern slopes of the Brooks Range, the palette of color changes before our eyes, as sunny days and cold nights turn the land red, yellow, purple and gold. Rivers are clear, mosquitoes are long gone, caribou are on the move, and every species is preparing for the long winter. It is a fine time to be paddling an arctic river, especially a river as beautiful and sublime as the Chandalar. This is the land of the Gwich'in Athapascans--the "People of the Caribou." On this arctic canoe trip, we traverse a magnificent mountain valley dotted with lakes, as we descend a meandering ribbon of crystal clear water.

The many tributaries of the Chandalar River have their origins in the heart of the Brooks Range. The waters of the West, North, Middle and East Fork Chandalar flow southward to meet the main Chandalar--its waters eventually reaching the Yukon River. The East Fork begins high in the Romanzof Mountains and flows some 175 miles before it reaches the main Chandalar.

We begin our canoeing journey about as far north on the river as you can dip a paddle, and explore the upper reaches of the East Fork on foot. The river moves swiftly at first, braiding and twisting through the mountain-rimmed valley. Grey peaks rise above the northernmost boreal forest in Alaska. As the river loses elevation, the river slows, oxbows meandering gracefully through a forested, lake-dotted valley.

Rich in wildlife and history, the East Fork is a gentle float. This time of the year, we may see moose, caribou, Dall sheep, wolves, small mammals, and waterfowl that have not yet departed for the south. We may also have an opportunity to stop into a subsistence camp along the river, where Gwich'in hunters net whitefish and hunt for wild game.

Our trip culminates in Arctic Village, and we have an opportunity to meet with Gwich'in friends in the village before flying back to Fairbanks.

The Gwich'in name for the river is Achenchik, but the name Chandalar comes from the French voyageurs working for the Hudson's Bay Company in the 19th century. They referred to the Gwich'in as "Gens du Large," meaning "nomadic people." When written in English, it became Chandalar. Come share the nomadic life on our passage of the East Fork Chandalar River Valley.