With good reason, in 2005, Explore, Canada's Outdoor Magazine, voted our Kuujjua River Canoeing trip one of Canada's top adventures. Outside Magazine also rated our trip as one of 2005's best adventures. Travel with us to Victoria Island, Canada's third-largest island, part of Western Canada's High Arctic island archipelago on one of Canada's most remote paddling trips, a region little-known, even in adventure circles.
The Kuujjua River ("big river" in Inuktitut) flows about 350 kilometers (225 miles), rising in the Shaler Mountains at 71 degrees Latitude, and meeting the Arctic Ocean at Minto Inlet on the island's west side. Beginning as a shallow stream, the river flows smoothly across rolling tundra, gaining speed and volume as it drops through rugged badlands and dark buttes, cutting canyons through basalt cliffs reminiscent of the Southwest U.S. We aim to explore about 175 miles of the river, taking time to hike in the headwaters, observe wildlife, and look for signs of Palaeoeskimo and Copper Inuit archeological sites.
The Kuujjua is a challenging river by any standards, but more so in the Arctic, for the weather and water levels are always uncertain, and wind is a factor. Aside from long stretches of whitewater, there are portages around cliffs and falls, and sections of lining through shallows. Paddlers must be strong intermediate canoeists, or be a strong bow paddler accompanying an experienced stern paddler. A good level of fitness, endurance and mental fortitude is essential.
Wildlife is abundant on the Kuujjua! With every turn in the river, we are likely to see muskoxen, arctic wolves, arctic foxes, snowy owls, arctic hares, and even Peary caribou. Dozens of bird species nest, from the tiny Lapland longspur to sandhill cranes, arctic and yellow-throated loons, Sabine's gulls, and white-fronted geese. Fishing is good; arctic char is abundant. Our exploration is at the height of High Arctic summer, so wildflowers will be a their peak. The light is endless, the solitude complete.
This is a trip for committed adventurers, ready to work together as a team, willing to endure the vagaries of wind, weather, and hard physical labo
r so common in high latitudes. The rewards come in experiencing an extraordinary river, and a remote High Arctic wilderness.
We paddle sturdy, yet portable Ally (Norwegian-made) canoes. Schedules are cast to the wind. We paddle when the winds are down, Stop to observe wildlife at every opportunity, hunker down in our tents when the weather's bad, hike as often as we can, and eat and sleep when we're tired. Meals are hearty and healthy, to match arctic appetites.
