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Noatak River Canoeing Odyssey, Gates of the Arctic National Park

Trip Length: 10 days in 2 National Park areas--Gates of the Arctic National Park and Noatak National Preserve
Activities: Canoeing or paddle rafting adventure on Class I and II river; day hikes of any length over trailless, uneven terrain; wildlife and scenic photography; fishing.
Dates: July 6-15, 2010
Price: $4450 from Fairbanks, Alaska
Rating: M

In the heart of Arctic Alaska's Central Brooks Range, Mt. Igikpak gives birth to Alaska's longest, and premier Wild and Scenic River. Beginning in Gates of the Arctic National Park, and flowing through Noatak National Preserve, the Noatak meanders more than 400 miles through a grand and spacious land, the largest undisturbed wilderness in North America, a watershed entirely above the Arctic Circle.

Ten thousand years ago, ancestral Eskimos traversed the valley, leaving only scattered remains of camps. Today there is but a single settlement on the lower river. All else is wilderness. The Noatak is ideally suited to canoeing. It is fairly easy and meandering for the first few days, giving us an opportunity to practice your paddling skills. Further down, the current increases and we encounter Class II rapids. With upriver winds, our paddling arms gain strength. We paddle Ally folding canoes down the upper 110 miles of the river, through a broad U-shaped glacial valley ringed by rugged mountains and weathered tundra foothills.

Our journey begins with a scenic flight over the Central Brooks Range, passing the jagged spires of Arrigetch Peaks, and landing in the river's headwaters in Gates of the Arctic National Park. Gates of the Arctic includes more than 8 million acres, most of it designated as wilderness. We explore the wild upper Noatak valley, with day hikes to explore beckoning side valleys and hike the ridges overlooking spectacular valleys.

The Noatak River's mountainous headwaters are part of the summer territory of the Western Arctic Caribou Herd. Thousands of caribou migrate through the Noatak valley on their way to and from summer ranges north of the Brooks Range. With luck, we'll see small bands of caribou crossing the tundra or swimming the river. In June and July, the animals traverse the area, keeping on the move.

In August, they head south towards the Kobuk River. Small numbers of muskoxen have moved into the region; we usually see one or two along the river. Dall sheep inhabit the mountainous headwaters; we are likely to encounter wolves, moose, fox and grizzly bears. If the chum salmon are spawning on one of the side streams, we have an opportunity to observe bears fishing in the creek. Our schedule allows lots of time for day hiking, berry picking, or fishing for arctic char, grayling, lake trout, and northern pike.

June and July trips offer constant light, wildflowers and generally good stretches of clear weather. August trips immerse you in the Far North's autumn glory. Fall colors, with brilliant red, yellow, and purple, paint the land. Caribou are photogenic and regal in their dark coats. Plump blueberries provide us with desserts and breakfast fruit.

Our Noatak paddle through Alaska's Brooks Range is one of the Far North's classic "life-list" river trips. We begin "in the shadow" of the tallest peak in Gates of the Arctic, and traverse a region with outstanding scenery, great day hiking, and superb wildlife viewing opportunities. No previous river experience is necessary to enjoy this expedition.

Itinerary
Day 0 Travel to Fairbanks, Alaska. The group generally plans to meet for dinner the night before the trip to go over final trip details, and to get acquainted. Overnight accommodations are on your own, but we can help you with suggestions and bookings at our favorite bed and breakfasts and hotels in Fairbanks.

Day 1 Meet at small airport in the morning. Fly by scheduled flight from Fairbanks to Bettles or to Coldfoot. From here, we can explore the small town of Bettles or visit the Interagency Visitor Center in Coldfoot. To reach the Noatak, we fly by bush plane from the lowland, lake-dotted flats and boreal forest along the Koyukuk River, and north up the Alatna River, where scattered trees give way to alpine tundra and eventually fell-fields and the high mountain peaks. We cross the Continental (Arctic) Divide and land near the river's headwaters, nestled between 6,000-foot peaks. Mt. Igikpak, highest peak in the Central Brooks Range, is visible upriver from us. We can spend the rest of our day exploring the valley and surrounding hills.

Day 2 After breakfast, we have the day to explore the valley on foot, following a tributary up towards its headwaters, or climbing one of the surrounding peaks. The Noatak River follows a serpentine course across a two-mile wide U-shaped valley, with oxbow lakes dotting the valley. We discuss basic paddling skills, boat loading, and safety concerns before inflating boats and embarking on our journey.

Days 3-9 We paddle 2-person canoes, covering 6 to 25 miles per day, depending upon the wind, weather, and our need to "cover some miles." The paddling is moderately easy (generally Class I, with a little Class II+) If there are upriver winds, some paddling days may be long. Our 10-day trip stays in the mountains, as we explore the upper Noatak. We leave the highest mountains and the river widens and increases in volume and the gradient becomes more apparent, as we paddle through a narrow canyon where the rocks create exciting Class II whitewater. We continue down through wilderness lands, as the valley opens up.

We have a few layover days for hiking. Every day offers the opportunity to observe wildlife and to enjoy the solitude of the longest undisturbed wilderness waterway in the Brooks Range. On Day 9, we spend our final night on the Noatak, and carry our boats up to a lake a short distance from the river, or camp on a gravel bar for a wheel plane pick-up.

Day 10 We are picked up by bush plane and taken south, back over the mountains to Bettles, or Coldfoot. From here, we fly back to Fairbanks by scheduled or charter air service.

If all goes well, we arrive by 5:00 p.m., and often get together for a final no-host dinner.

Included in trip costs
  • All transportation beyond Fairbanks
  • All meals in the field
  • Boats, paddles, life jackets, and other boating gear
  • Group cooking, camping, medical and safety equipment (We bring such items as a kitchen shelter, emergency radio, SAT phone, one large dry bag for each participant, bear repellent spray, water filter and first aid kit)
  • Expert leadership
Not included in trip costs
  • Lodging before or after trip or "weather delay" lodging
  • Extra meals you might choose to purchase in a town or village while we are awaiting air transport
  • Sleeping bag and pad, and personal equipment
  • Excess baggage charges
Call or E-mail us for the complete packet on this expedition.




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