If you only take one trip in your life to the High Arctic, we recommend the Thomsen River on Banks Island. It traverses a superb wilderness preserve, and offers an unforgettable experience in one of the most amazing natural and cultural environments in North America.

Canada's Aulavik National Park encompasses 12,000 square miles of broad river valleys, rugged badlands, and dramatic coastline in the northeast corner of Banks Island. The westernmost island in the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, Banks Island was untouched by the last Ice Age. This rolling and rugged landscape is a true sanctuary for arctic flora and fauna, and a treasure trove of High Arctic pre-history and history. The Thomsen River flows through this magnificent park.

Flowing north above 72 degrees of latitude, the Thomsen River is the world's farthest north navigable river. Shallow, crystal-clear, and seasonal, the river's source lies in winter's snowmelt. It begins to flow by early June, and is not navigable by August. We travel through this amazing wildlife corridor during a narrow window of opportunity, when the wildflowers are at their peak.

An Arctic Garden of Eden, Banks Island supports more than half the world's population of muskoxen; there are 70,000 here, and with every turn in the river, and every step over tundra sedge and hummock, we are constantly aware of their presence. This is a place where you can sit quietly with your camera, and muskoxen will grace you with their presence. White wolves, arctic hares, arctic foxes, ermine, lemmings, and a few Peary caribou also inhabit the park.

Snowy owls are the most conspicuous bird; dozens of species nest, from the tiny Lapland longspur, with its lilting song, to the water-loving yellow-billed loon. Rough-legged hawks, gyrfalcons, sandhill cranes, King eiders, yellow-billed loons, and peregrine falcons summer on Banks Island, and, virtually the entire North American population of snow geese. We see them by the thousands on our flight into the river. With luck, we may even spot Sabine's gulls.

As exciting as the flora and fauna is the human history and prehistory of Banks Island. We encounter hundreds of archeological sites in the Thomsen River Valley--tent rings, meat caches, piles of a nimal skulls--ranging from 150 to 3,400 years old. Aulavik National Park is a living museum of Thule and Copper Inuit history in the region.

We spend lots of time on our hands and knees, observing tiny wildflowers and willows that grow no more than 3-4 inches off the ground. More than 160 plants thrive here. Our schedule allows for several full layover days for day hiking and exploring, as well as opportunities for short hikes off the river every day.

On this hiking and paddling trip, we paddle sturdy, portable Ally folding canoes. Anyone can paddle with us, as the river is gentle and non-technical. Wind is always a factor in the Arctic. We paddle when the winds are down, hike as often as we can, and eat and sleep enough to stay happy. Time means nothing in a place where it is light 24 hours a day. Join us for this trip to a northern wildlife oasis, traveling by plane over the Mackenzie River Delta and several hundred miles of the Beaufort Sea to the upper Thomsen River.