Our paddling trip down the Utukok River takes us to a timeless land. The Northwestern Arctic is like the Great Plains of 250 years ago; the land is vast, with rolling hills, mesas, and plateaus, and caribou pour across the land like streams of water. National Geographic Magazine says, "Though National Petroleum Reserve sounds like a massive oil tank that the nation taps in times of need, in reality it contains the largest piece of unprotected wilderness in the nation.Ó
The Utukok River begins in the DeLong Mountains of the Western Brooks Range and flows north and east to Kasegaluk Lagoon on the Chukchi Sea. North of the DeLong Mountains, the Utukok Uplands provide integral calving grounds and early summer habitat for the Western Arctic caribou herd. The area also has the highest grizzly bear and wolverine densities in Alaska's Arctic. On past trips, we've encountered thousands of caribou, tiny calves clinging to their mother's sides.
We begin our trip in the Utukok uplands, where the river is braided, shallow and swift. The river slows, as it cuts through winding ridges and plateaus. Cliffs provide excellent habitat for a variety of raptors, including peregrine falcons, gyrfalcons, and rough-legged hawks. This is a truly wild and remote area, free of planes and other travelers. The Utukok is a gentle river, suitable for beginner paddlers, though the wind is a constant reminder that we are in the Arctic. We have a couple layover days for explorations further afield.
Unlike the Brooks Range, this land has been ice-free for millenia. Herds of woolly mammoth, saber-toothed tigers, and horses roamed the area when much of the rest of North America lay beneath glaciers. Today, we find evidence of their existence in eroding cutbanks, along with archeological evidence of hunters of the Arctic Small Tool tradition.
This is big country, part of the 35-million-acre National Petroleum Reserve-Alaska, set aside for future mineral needs. Get to know it now, and become a voice for its protection, for it is currently threatened, i.e. BLM (Bureau of Land Management) has plans to lease out the South National Petroleum Reserve-Alaska for coal mining or oil development. We want to keep it wild; you'll see why. Explore Arctic Alaska's Far West wilderness, in time to witness the post-calving migration of the 500,000-member Western Arctic Caribou herd, and before the mosquitoes arrive. This expedition is all about wide open space and wildlife. You won't be disappointed.